Recommended Tools:
>table saw >miter saw >router/router table
Note: -all safety rules
and owners manuals pertaining to the tools should be read
before starting -make sure all guards are in place and operating
correctly - proper eye and ear protection should be worn
-power supply to any machine should be disconnected when
making any adjustments.
Steps:
1. Determine the dimensions of your box and select appropriate
width wood. Mark exterior and interior faces.
2. With a scrap piece of
wood, check squareness of your miter saw. Make a cut with
the blade at 90 degrees to base and check with a square.
Check both across the width (1) and thickness (2) of the
wood. Adjust accordingly and lock the base of your miter
saw in place when you're happy.
3. Clamp a stop block on
the fence of the saw to cut to length the box's end and
side panels. Note: A stop block may take extra time, but
reduces or eliminates migration of material during the cut,
producing precise joints.
4. Cut all the pieces for
the box carcass using a stop block.
5. Pre-assemble the box
carcass using clamps only -NO GLUE! Check each exterior
corner of the box with a try-square and re-cut if necessary.
Note: a piece of scrap material should be placed between
the jaws of the clamp and box to distribute clamping pressure
and prevent marring of your workpiece.
6. Once satisfied that
the box is square, disassemble and apply glue to the joints
using a small brush or spatula to ensure good glue coverage.
Reassemble the box with clamps or tape, check for squareness
and let stand for 1 hour to dry.
Don't overdo the glue or
you'll have a big job cleaning up the squeeze out afterwards.
A small amount is inevitable, and I have found that a small
metal ruler is the best tool to remove it. (use an old one,
or make sure you clean it off well when done)
7. Select wood to be used
for the top and bottom of the box. Cut this material to
be slightly larger than the outside dimensions, to accommodate
any inaccuracies. Check for fit and then glue in place.
When dry, sand excess material off so that top and bottom
are flush with the sides.
If you would like to add
a decorative veneer to the box surfaces, this is the point
at which you would do it. Veneer the 4 sides first, finishing
off with the top. Add a felt or cork to the bottom side.
8. If you are not veneering
the box, and want the edges of the box to be rounded, now
is the time. Route as desired, sides and top.
9. The box may now be "split"
(separating the top from the carcase). First adjust the
rip fence on your table saw to desired depth of the lid
and adjust the blade so that it is one saw tooth higher
than the thickness of the sides of the box. Cut the two
longest sides of the box first (with the top against the
fence).
Stop and tape a spline
the thickness of the saw kerf into the groove cut by the
blade on both sides of the box (this will prevent the lid
from caving in on the blade during the final cut). Cut both
ends of the box, shut off the saw, and remove splines and
tape. The box should fall into two pieces, a top and a bottom.
Thanks to http://www.thewoodbox.com
